“A Soul’s Journey Through India’s Heart”
Mohammad Taukir Rahmani
Travel is not just about traversing miles or exploring places; it is a quest for dreams, a balm for the soul, and a voyage into the heart of cherished memories. Some journeys are not confined to the maps—they unfold in the labyrinth of our minds and carve unforgettable tales into the fabric of our existence. My recent expedition was one of those rare odysseys, where each step turned into a story and every destination became a living dream.
“Such a journey it was, so rich with spring,
Each moment a treasure, fragrant and glistening.”
The decision to embark on this journey came like a bolt out of the blue. A two-day seminar organized by Markazul Ma’arif on the theme of “Markaz Online Madrasah” (MOM) was to be held at Mahmud Hall near Darul Uloom Deoband. The event promised the presence of renowned scholars and alumni from across the country, offering a golden opportunity to unite hearts and minds under the banner of knowledge and companionship. Yet, the responsibilities of ongoing exams in Mumbai tugged at my conscience, whispering doubts. But as they say:
“Where the heart longs, feet find their way;
Obstacles crumble like sand before the tide.”
On the evening of November 17, I boarded a train from Borivali Station, Mumbai, bound for Hazrat Nizamuddin, Delhi. The next morning, the city of Delhi greeted me with its bustling charm. My first destination was the iconic Markaz Nizamuddin, a spiritual sanctuary. The honor to meet Mufti Sheeth, and the wise words of scholars like Maulana Saad Sahib revitalized my soul. In the serene atmosphere of the Markaz, I found a sense of solace that washed away all traces of weariness.
A visit to the mausoleum of Hazrat Khwaja Nizamuddin Auliya followed—a spiritual haven where silence spoke volumes, and the heart felt inexplicably light. After paying my respects and offering prayers, I wandered to the adjacent mosque, an epitome of Mughal elegance. The mausoleum of Hazrat Amir Khusro, Khwaja’s ardent disciple, was another jewel in this spiritual treasure chest, where literary admiration and reverence intertwined seamlessly.
Yet, a shadow fell over my joy—the sight of superstition creeping into these sacred spaces. The purity of the saints’ teachings seemed veiled by the weight of unwarranted customs, leaving my heart heavy.
From there, I ventured to Humayun’s Tomb, where centuries-old grandeur whispered tales of the Mughal era. The architectural brilliance and intricate artistry held me spellbound. But amidst this splendor, the neglected Masajid, trampled under careless feet, stirred a pang of sorrow within.
In search of respite, I found myself at India Gate, where the names of martyrs engraved on its walls spoke louder than any monument ever could. As dusk fell and twilight painted the sky in soft hues, the tranquil ambiance of the place became a soothing balm for my spirit.
That evening, I had the privilege of visiting my esteemed teacher, Dr. Hifzur Rahman Qasmi. His warm reception and wise counsel were like rain to a parched land, rejuvenating my weary soul. His guidance illuminated my path and added depth to my journey, for which I pray:
“May his shadow always grace the earth;
His wisdom, a beacon for those who tread the path.”
The morning of November 19 found me on my way to the historic Red Fort. Riding the metro was an experience in itself—a blend of modernity and efficiency that invigorated my senses. As the fort’s majestic red walls loomed into view, it felt like stepping into a living museum. The ancient structures within were awe-inspiring, each a masterpiece in its own right. Yet, the locked gates of the Moti Masjid and the indifference of bustling tourists stung like a thorn in the heart of a rose.
The bustling streets led me to the grand Jama Masjid, a sanctuary that still echoed with the purity of prayer. Here, the sight of worshippers lost in devotion was a salve to my soul. Before leaving, I visited the mausoleum of Maulana Abul Kalam Azad—a solemn place that spoke of legacy and sacrifice.
By nightfall, I found myself boarding a train to Deoband, the cradle of Islamic scholarship. The moment my feet touched its sacred soil, a wave of emotion swept over me. The legacy of Hazrat Maulana Muhammad Qasim Nanotvi (RA) and the towering history of Darul Uloom Deoband seemed to come alive in the very air I breathed.
“This is no mere institution but a beacon of light,
Guiding the faithful through the darkest of nights.”
As I arrived, a flurry of desires and intentions stirred within my mind. Should I first bask in the majestic beauty of Masjid Rashid, or lose myself in the soothing atmosphere of Chatta Masjid, letting its serenity ease my soul? Should I visit the sacred shrine of Maulana Qasmi, seeking the spiritual blessings of the revered elders, or perhaps find solace in the luminous aura of Mazar-e-Anwari and Mazar-e-Abidi, where prayers seem to carry on wings of light? Should I immerse myself in the scholarly gatherings of Darul Hadith, drawing wisdom from the minds of the greats, or should I explore the other domains of knowledge that this esteemed place has to offer?
In the end, I sought to fulfill all these desires, stepping into every corner of Darul Uloom as though it was a world unto itself. The legacy of the illustrious elders, their words of wisdom scattered like pearls throughout the halls, illuminated my heart. The atmosphere here was unlike any other, filled with a rare tranquility and spirituality—like an invisible thread binding my heart to this sanctuary, unwilling to let it go.
In this blessed haven, peace settled into my soul as if the very air whispered ancient prayers. It felt as though the walls themselves held the echoes of countless years of wisdom, each one a heartbeat of time, and each whisper a divine counsel.
“In this sacred space, my heart finds its home,
May I never leave; this is the prayer of my soul.”
The very thought of leaving seemed impossible, as though the essence of peace, knowledge, and divine presence had wrapped itself around me, becoming a part of who I am. This was no mere visit—it was a union of spirit, mind, and soul.
Every corner of Darul Uloom whispered stories of sacrifice and scholarship. A visit to the mausoleum of Maulana Qasim Nanotvi (RA) brought tears to my eyes, as I stood amidst the resting places of those who shaped the destiny of a nation. The warm hospitality of the teachers and companions further enriched my stay, their radiant smiles and gentle demeanors leaving an indelible mark on my heart.
During my stay at Darul Uloom Deoband, I had the privilege of meeting some of the most esteemed intellectual and spiritual personalities, whose unique contributions in the realms of knowledge and virtue have left an indelible mark on the world. Scholars like Maul. Ayub Muzaffar Nagr, Maul. Naseem Bara Bankavi, Maul. Arif Jameel Mubarakpur, Maul. Afzal Kemori, Maul. Afzal Basti, Mufti Usman Ghani Howrah, Mufti Sajid, Mufti Ishtiaq Darbhanga, Mufti Imranullah Ghazi Abad, Mufti Mohammadullah, Maul. Tauqeer Qasmi Naqshbandi Kandhlawi, Maulana Abdul Hamid Bastavi, Maul. Abdul Malik Bijnor, Maul. Hussain Qasmi Sitamarhi, Mufti Asad Qasmi, and Maul. Asjad Uqabi all welcomed me into their circle. Their sincere counsel, profound scholarship, and compassionate concerns for the Ummah left a lasting impression on my heart and mind. These encounters were a sublime fusion of knowledge, spirituality, and selfless devotion, whose echoes will continue to resonate in my soul for years to come.
During this time, I had the fortune of reconnecting with some old friends from my alma mater, Jamia Rahmani Khanqah Munger, Bihar. Their presence instantly dissolved any sense of unfamiliarity I had with Darul Uloom. It was as though the veils of distance were lifted, and my heart felt at home once again, as if I had never left—like the words of an old poet:
“We are where we belong,
A place so familiar, even time itself cannot define it.”
Meeting Mohammad Azim Deobandi and Sa’adat Hussain Amroha was a delightful first encounter. Yet, their spontaneous conversations, amiable nature, and cheerful personalities quickly erased any sense of distance. Their laughter, rich in warmth and camaraderie, created an atmosphere so intimate that it felt as though we were long-lost friends reunited, sharing the kind of joyous moments that one can only dream of. It was as though we were surrounded by dear companions with whom every secret, every joy, every fleeting moment was worth treasuring for an eternity. Truly, there are some rare souls who, through their unwavering companionship, transcend the barriers of time and space:
“Some relationships are like bridges of light,
Where distances dissolve, and dreams take flight.”
A meeting with Mufti Ashraf Abbas and Maulana Sadaqat Hussain was a true blessing. Their scholarly brilliance, profound insight, and deeply compassionate concern for the welfare of the Ummah radiated like beams of wisdom. Their guidance not only sparked intellectual enthusiasm but also illuminated new horizons of practical action. Their wisdom was like a wellspring of clarity that refreshed the soul and beckoned one toward a path of greater understanding and purposeful action. Meeting them felt as if I had witnessed firsthand an extraordinary display of intellectual fertility and an unparalleled commitment to the well-being of the Ummah.
Their presence was a living testament to the fact that true knowledge is not just a treasure to be admired, but a force to be wielded for the betterment of all.
On the culinary front, Deoband did not disappoint. Its famed biryani, Hafiz Ji’s tea, and Furqan’s tehari were delectable treats, adding a flavorful note to my journey. But as all good things must end, bidding farewell to this revered institution was no easy task. The poignant words of Shafiq Jonpuri came to mind:
“Every wall, every door, I glanced at twice,
Fearing I might not see them again in life.”
From the hallowed halls of Darul Uloom, my journey took me to the renowned land of Mazahirul Uloom in Saharanpur, a sanctuary where knowledge and spirituality converge. The moment I set foot there, it felt as though my heart was bathed in the radiant light of learning and faith. As if fate had conspired, I found myself in the company of old friends, and the hours spent reminiscing about the past were like sweet melodies, soothing my soul and rejuvenating my spirit.
I was granted the immense privilege of visiting the shrines of Maulana Asadullah VC Mazahirul Uloom, the esteemed Shaikhul Hadith, the luminous scholar Hazrat Maul. Muhammad Yunus Jaunpuri, and the revered spiritual guide Hazrat Maulana Talha—may Allah’s mercy envelop them all. In the tranquility of the night, under the gentle embrace of their spiritual presence, the air seemed to vibrate with an ethereal peace. It was a silence filled not with emptiness but with a profound depth, as if each corner of that sacred space whispered tales of wisdom and reverence.
After offering Fatiha, I was escorted by my dear friend, Maulana Zain, to his hometown, where we were welcomed with the warmest hospitality. There, a sumptuous dinner awaited us—an experience so delightful that it seemed to dissolve all traces of fatigue. The kindness of Maulana Zain’s father, Mr. Imranuz Zaman Sahib, deeply touched my heart. His graciousness was a reminder that true nobility lies in the humility of one’s actions. May Allah grant him a long and prosperous life, filled with peace and blessings. During our enlightening conversation, Mr. Imranuz Zaman shared with me the legacy of his own father, the distinguished scholar and author of the Encyclopedia of Islam, Maulana Muhammad Yamin Qureshi (RA). The tales of his scholarly pursuits and accomplishments painted a portrait of intellectual excellence, and my admiration for their family’s revered legacy grew deeper still.
After this memorable evening, we made our way back to Mazahirul Uloom. As the clock struck midnight, with the train scheduled to depart at 12:30 AM, I found myself in the company of my dear friends, Farhan Saeedi and Zain Mazhari, as we drifted back into the fondness of old memories. The joy of laughter, the banter of shared experiences, and the comfort of old companionship turned those fleeting moments into timeless treasures. Those hours, so rich in affection and camaraderie, stirred something in me, and I could not help but reflect on the beauty of fleeting time:
Those days, so full of joy,
Those moments, so deeply cherished,
The world was ours to behold,
As we, together, traversed the paths of love.
Eventually, as the train’s arrival beckoned, it was time to bid farewell to the city that had graciously hosted us. Standing at the station, I looked around at the faces of dear friends and, with a grateful heart, I said my goodbyes. Each moment shared was like a precious gem, adding to the mosaic of this journey’s memory. I extend my heartfelt thanks to every friend who contributed to making this experience unforgettable, with their love and unwavering support. May Allah shower them with abundant joy and prosperity in this life and the next.
A special note of gratitude goes to my esteemed friend, Maul. Salman Alam Qasmi, whose wisdom and guidance illuminated the path of this journey. His presence turned the arduous into the effortless, his insight transformed the mundane into the extraordinary. Truly, a companion like him is a gift—one that makes the journey not just bearable, but truly beautiful.
“Companionship with kind-hearted souls,
Turns even the harshest roads into gardens of peace.”
There are some journeys that transcend mere physical movement from one place to another. These are the journeys of the heart, the mind, and the soul. This journey was nothing short of a treasure trove—a rich tapestry woven with threads of love, knowledge, and spirituality. Each moment of this journey, each encounter with new faces, and each glance at the serene landscapes seemed to tell a story waiting to unfold. The memories etched in my heart will forever remain vivid and alive, like the brightest stars in the night sky, always offering guidance and inspiration.
“Some journeys give us more than just a change of scenery,
They gift us a deeper vision, a clearer purpose,
And fill our hearts with stories that never fade.”
